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A coracle
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First of all, what’s a coracle?
A circular shaped country boat to cross the river. A huge floating basket is a more appropriate description than calling it a boat. They are huge flat basketlike craft to ferry people & sheep (yes sheep!). About 6 feet in diameter, coracles are made of bamboo, cane, plastic sheets and a fine coating of bitumen to make it leak proof!.
Domingos Paes, the Portuguese traveler who visited Hampi during sixteenth century AD described the coracles as circular shaped, made of bamboo split wickerwork, covered the outside with leather and spins during the sail. They are exactly as it is today as it was four centuries back, except probably the leather has replaced PVC sheets.
On an average a coracle takes about 6-8 people. At Hampi there are three places you would find the coracle crossings.
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People queueing up at the Talarighat coracle ferry point, Hampi
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The first one is near the Virupaksha temple. That’s the Ghat (bathing place) adjacent to the temple. The crossing is mainly for crossing over to the other side of the river (the Virupapurgadde). Some times the coracle is used to take the tourists a ‘fun trip’ without any particular destination. However this is not for the weak-hearted ones!
The second ‘coracles spot’ is in front of the Kodandarama temple. There is a big bathing gaht here too.
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Images of the boatmen carved on a rock near the ferry point
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The third and the most important ferry point is near the Vittala temple. The road that goes to Anegondi ends here at the ‘work in progress bridge’. So the ferry is the only shortcut to proceed towards Anegondi. Take the road in front of the Vittala temple that goes towards east (that’s the main royal road with ruined structures on either side). About 2 kilometers from the temple you would reach the point where this road joins a north- south direction road. Towards north it’s Anegondi.
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A packed coracle
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Towards south it’s Talarighat Gate (further south Kamalapura ). If you go towards north from here, in about 1 kilometer you would reach the bridge. Take the trail that goes under the bridge along the left side you would reach the ferry point. Depends up on the time there would be about 2 or 3 ferry men doing the service at any time. Or wait there till some 5-6 people get assembled, a ferryman pops up from somewhere! You can take your bicycle or motorcycle along with you in the ferry. The ferryman would help you to load & unload the bike.
The charges vary slightly. They charge about 2 to 5 rupees per head for one way. Similarly if you carry a bicycle, the rate is about 10 rupees (you + bicycle). For a motorcycle plus you on it, it’s about 15 rupees. One needs to cross the ferry to reach places like Anegondi, the Hanuman temple, Sita Sarovar… and a number of other locations in the Anegondi area.
Last but least, the coracle crossing is not for the weak hearted. It’s not dangerous, but could be a bit scary for some.