Thirunelli

Kerala

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Location of Thirunelli in Kerala

Thirunelli Temple - view from the main road

Thirunelli in Wayanad is popular for two things - pilgrimage and tourism. To be a bit more specific , the ancient temple at Thirunelli is known for rites that is offered to the departed souls. Also for tourism, it's a birder's delight and trekker's paradise .

The temple is located on to of a hill that is surrounded by mountain ranges all around. In other words the temple sits hidden in the middle of a secluded forest . The temple faces east where sun raises over the Udayagiri range. At the north is the formidable Brahmagiri Range which appears so close to the temple. You can see the trees and the undulating grass slops of Brahmagiri from the temple compound. At the west and south are Karimala and Narinirangimala respectively.

Though there are no authentic details available, the temple could be well over a thousand years old. On stylistic ground this looks as a typical Kerala temple. The inner sanctorum is surrounded by a tile roofed structure. And there's an open courtyard around the sanctorum. At the east , in front of the entrance is a granite lamppost. Curiously enough the flag post is absent , though one can spot a hole on the floor where it ought to be.

Inside Thirunelli Temple . Brahmagiri in the backdrop.

Along the outer wall of the temple is a cloister made of granite pillars cut in cubical style. This part of the temple architecture is slightly unusual for a Kerala temple. And it seems the cloister work was never completed. There are many theories behind the uncompleted part of the temple. A fight ( kind of ego clash ) between two rulers seems to be the more convincing one. One (a local chieftain from the nearby Coorg) tried to add the cloister , while the king of the area was not impressed with this and ordered to stop the work. Anyway it still remains unfinished, centuries later.

Thirunelli Temple

On the northern side of the temple is an ancient stone aqueduct that still brings water to the temple. Hree again locals have a story to tell about its commissioning. A princesses visited the temple one. And there was no pooja ( offering to the god ) done on that day thanks to the dried-up streams nearby. The princesses wowed that she would not drink water until water is brough to the temple for the daily offerings. People went into the Brahmagiri and found a stream. Later she commissioned this aqueduct to bring uninterrupted water supply to the temple. Even till date , its just doing that , refreshingly cold mountain stream water just gush out of the aqueduct. The granite open channels are supported by pillars with interesting murals carved on it.

As mentioned earlier , the history part of the temple's origin is a bit hazy. Nothing much is known on who made this temple. At the best what is known is the association and stories connecting this temple s with various rulers. The temple is as old as 2000 years, or even more. But that ambiguity on history is easily compensated by the myths associated with the temple.

So who created this temple? None other than Brahma , the lord of creation.

While traveling on the earth he was attracted by the beauty of Brahmagiri ( hence the name) and decanted at Tirunelli. He saw a idol set on a Amla tree and identifies it as lord Vishnu. Brahma installed the idol with the help of gods from heaven. Impressed by this Lord Vishnu promised Brahma that the stream in the vicinity will wash away sins. This stream is thus called Papanashini ( the cleanser of sins). Amla or Indian gooseberry is called Nelli in Malayalam, thiru means sacred and hence the name Thirunelli.

As you walk from Thirunelly temple to Papanasini along the riverbank , somewhere midway on your left a small bridge appears. Cross this to go to a tiny shride called Gundika temple dedicated to lord Siva. Legend has it that a fruit ( again Nelli fruit ) plucked by a pilgrim has turned into a Shiva lings , as he was finishing bath in the Papanashini.

Now this is a rare confluence of all the three trinities of Hindu pantheon - Bhahma, Vishnu and Shiva- the creator , maintainer and destroyer respectively.

The rituals for the ancestors (pithr) start as early as 5 in the morning. Though it may continue all the day. But for some reasons it could be just from 5 to 9 in the morning. So if you are visiting Thirunelli for this ritual , reach there as early as possible or even chose to stay overnight at Thirunelli.

Thirunelli Temple - Way to Papanashini and Pancha theerthnam (partially seen on left)

The ritual is done in batches. It start with a prayer in front of the temple. A priest recite the Sanskrit mantra. And them pilgrims collect the materials required from the rites from the counter. After this they head to the sacred pond called Papanashini located about half a kilometer into the forest. A paved trail first and a bit of scrambling though the boulders on the path takes one to the tiny pond. It's almost waist deep water. Now they take the first dip in the water before the actual ritual starts.

The water from the pond flows through a narrow boulder strewn riverlet. On the bank of it stands the priest who administer the ritual. Pilgrims lines in the riverlet with almost ankle-deep flowing water. The ritual material collected from the temple is place on the boulder in front and the priest directs and administer the rituals in sequence.

The pilgrims then visit the temple again.

En route to Papanashini mentioned above is a sacred pond called Panchatirtha. In middle of it , on a boulder is the image of a footprint. This is called Vishnupada ( footprint of Lord Vishnu). Panchatirtha can be seen down from the northwest corner of the temple, while Papanashini is located further hidden in the forest.

How to reach Thirunelli ?

Forest on the way to Thirunelli Temple

Being located at the border Thirunelli can be accessed both from Kerala and Karnataka alike. The road from Kutta in Karnataka to Mananthavadi in Kerala merges with the road to Thirunelli. From Kutta the road first crosses Kerala border (in about 5 km) , a little later the road enters into the Wayanad wildlife sanctuary ( Tholpetty) . After you've come out of the sanctury , the road make a few more turns in the forest and joins a fork. The straight road (i.e. the main road) goes towards Mananthavadi via a small town called Kattikulam. The right fork ( it's almost a U bend for you) goes towards Thirunelli. There is a signboard at this junction directing you to Thirunelli or Mananthavadi.

This is the same road you've to use when coming from Mananthavadi to Thirunelli. Thirunelli road goes through the forest almost its full length. The only exception are the huge paddy fields in the flat valley and the few villages on the way. A few kilometers before you've reached Thirunelli, the crosses a village called Appapapara. Again the village is on the fringes of a sprawling paddy field. On your right , almost on the edge of the rice field is a forest department office.

In all probability you've to approach this office for the trekking to Pakshipatahalam ( that's about 8 km walk through the forest) and other treks .

The road then makes a few more steep bends around the mountainous terrain. At one point you can see the signboard "Tamarind Hotel" by KTDC ( Kerala State Tourism Development Council ) . The hotel is no visible from the main road. A paved path next the signpost leads to the hotel and restaurant. The main road further climbs up the hill and you would reach Thirunelli junction. Turn right to the uphill road to reach the temple. As the road ends turn left for the parking lot. That's also the compound of the temple guest house.

Both private and Kerala state buses operate to Thirunelli from Mananthavadi town. The last bus to Mananthavadi leaves by 5 pm from Thirunelli. Other than bus services , you can hire jeep to reach Thirunelli ( from Kattikulam or Mananthavadi).

If you are driving from Mananthavadi , ask for Mysore road. About 10 kilometers from Mananthavadi you reach a small town called Kattikulam. Turn left as you cross the town. There is a signpost directing to Thirunelli temple. From this point the ghat road starts. after about 10 kilometers yo can spot the road that goes towards Kutta ( the fork mentioned above ). At this junction Thirunelli road turns left. The rest of the route is same explained above. Kattikulam to Thirunelli is 20 kilometers.

Thirunelli Temple - Guest house

There are only limited accommodation available at Thirunelli. The most preferred among the visitors seems to be the temple owned guest house. That is located right in front of the temple with terrific views of the mountain ranges all around. This is a mid range no nonsense accommodation aimed at the pilgrims. It is generally booked full, though you can try your luck on arrival. The next is a the Tamarind brand "Easy Hotel" by KTDC. It's just a kilometer down before the temple.

Also there are a number of tiny lodges and even homes rent out rooms for the visitors. All are located around the visinity of the temple area.

If everything fails , stay at Mananthavadi. That's the nearest big town and Mananthavadi has a good range of value for money hotels. The only drawback is you are about 30 kilometers away from Thirunelli. But in all probability you need to cross Mananthavadi , if your plan for Wayanad is more than a visit at Thirunelli.

There are many restaurants too around the temple area. Most of them offer passable vegetarian food. There are a few in front and one behind the temple.

As you go around the temple , at its northwest corner ( where the steps to Papanashini begins) you hear this devotional song played in unusually loud pitch. Devotional songs it is , but what the sound announces is the presence of a restaurant and a Souvenir shop next to it.

Telephone connection ? Yes, Thirunelli has a cell phone tower. You may not get signal midway through the forest after Kattikulam. But once you are in Thirunelli , sure the cell phone would start troubling you. Just for your technical interest, Thirunelli has a BSNL telephone exchange right in front of the temple.

A toilet facility is located on the west of the parking area. Go to the edge of the parking area and steep downhill path leads to the toilets. There's also a cloakroom facility near Papanashini for the convenience of pilgrims to take bath in the sacred pond.

Your guess is right, anything and everything manmade in Thrirunelli are located around the temple premises.

Elephant Corridors on the way to Thirunelli

A few words about the 'Elephant Corridors' that you come across as your road crosses it on the way to Thirunelli. Elephant herds are migratory. They travel vast distances along their well trodden migratory paths within the forest. This is a needed thing they've to do for their survival, both for food and better chances of mating. For example during summer , when the grass in the hills and water bodies vanishes, they migrate to the river banks like the grass lands of Kabini in Karnataka.

Now come the man made things like plantations and settlements obstructing their safe passage and fragmenting their habitat. The corridors are thus narrow forest tracts connects the now fragmented forest stretches to enable their migration.

As you drive from Kattikulam to Thirunelly , your road crosses these designated areas. There is nothing special to notice other than a wide section of open land that stretches either side into the forest. Of course there are the signboards installed by the Kerala forest department indicating the location. Yes elephants do cross the road!

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